NONNA CHERUBINA,

Nonna Cherubina is Italian for "little angelic grandmother," which is quite the ambitious role model for the so-named Warwick restaurant. Yet this image captures its ambiance as well as its offerings, which can be thought of as northern Italian comfort food. Apparently gone is the day when the main reason for presenting that region's cuisine on this side of the Atlantic was to yank the national culinary flag from the hands of southern Italian restaurant proprietors. Nonna Cherubina reveals what we suspected all along: at home and curtains drawn, northerners like a good tomato sauce as much as any Neapolitan. I chose the Pollo Garibaldi ($12.95) for my main course, while my companion had the Sogliola Ricca ($16.95). Although the split and pounded chicken on my plate was a little dry, the side dish of timballo, a lasagne-like portion of baked pasta, had a delicious red sauce on top and a dreamy bechamel sauce layered within. The Sogliola Ricca, a filet of sole lightly battered and sauteed in olive oil, was topped with what was described on the menu as a "creamy sauce of olives, garlic, and parsley." Who says Sicilians have more fun?

Full review.